Monday, January 18, 2010 -- PADRE RAMOS & PIÑATA PARTY

We were both up and seemingly ready at 7 am, the appointed hour of departure. We thought we were to spend the night at Rancho Tranquilo but Jenn had made arrangements for us to tent on her property for an early start the next day. So, Jess and I returned to our hut, hastily packed up our gear, and paid Tina what we owed her over breakfast.

The night before Tina had said that we were leaving so early that Mommie would not be there to prepare breakfast. So I expected none. But Peter and Penelope and Jenn arrived, and by the time all was straightened out, it was 7:30 and Mommie was there. J & P bought breakfast for themselves and for us, as well as some pineapple pastries at the pulperia. This was, after all, the first day of our paid kayaking tour which was all inclusive.

After breakfast, Jess and I said goodbye to Tina, Dennis, Mommie, and the Danes. We and Daniel walked to Jenn & Peter’s place, which was about half mile away across the road and down several tracks right on the estero (see map previous blog report). Their house is about an 8-by-12 windowless cement block structure just large enough for a double bed in one end, some floor-to-ceiling shelves beside it, and Penelope’s tiny tent under the shelves. They had a black plastic outhouse, an outside kitchen (Coleman 2-burner cook stove), and a large, open well. They had just completed a very large circular thatched pavilion that had a tile floor—this partly for their 17-month old daughter Penelope, something of a giant playpen. Carpenters were working on their new composting toilet and shower which is supposed to have a dividing wall made of rum bottles. The two of them were also working on constructing solar panels as they have no electricity. In the future they plan to buy a horse and cart. Really going Nicaraguan.

The new pavilion at Jenn & Peter's with our tent set up in it and workers erecting the new composting toilet/shower house in background

Dina, Ibis Exchange’s cook, was preparing our lunches at the outside camp stove. When finished, she placed each lunch in a lidded plastic container. Jenn gathered fruit drinks and placed them in a small cooler and we eventually loaded all into the kayaks. 

Daniel making a face at  the paparazzi

Hate this hat, but beggars cannot be choosers. I was not prepared for a day in the sun so Daniel gave me his tee and Jenn the hat.

We all changed into our bathing suits and shorts, and chose kayaks from their storage rack near the estuary. I, being less experienced, will paddle in a double with Jenn. Then we explored the Padre Ramos Estero until 4 pm. At noon, we stopped on a sandy beach and had lunch (whole red snapper, cabbage salad with lime, rice, fried bananas). I had taken the rest of the pineapple turnovers and we had them for desert.

During our paddle, we saw Brown Pelicans, Belted and Ringed Kingfishers, Great Kiskadees, Black and Turkey Vultures, Spotted Sandpipers, Whimbrels, Long-billed Curlews, gulls, Caspian and Royal Terns, many Willets; Little Blue, Green, and Great Blue Herons; Neotropical Cormorants, White-winged Pigeons, Inca Doves, Mangrove Swallows, and lots of fish jumping—some small ones in schools and some skipping over the water in multiple jumps like skipped stones. What was chasing them under the water, I wondered.

Jenn, Jess, and Daniel walking the mud flats at low tide; Daniel gave his tee to me so his fair skin is in danger of sunburn

Jess seeking a nap at low tide; Jessica is still drained both emotionally and physically

Daniel's feet after our walk on the mud flats

Body of water bisecting the mud flats

We paddled two meandering channels. Jenn told us that she did nothing but explore the channels for the first year she was here, learning which went through and which dead-ended. Most dead end. She also met Donā Juana and asked if she could bring parties to camp on her property, which we will do tomorrow night.

When we got back, Peter’s birthday party was already in production. Many women and children had arrived and were sitting at the long outdoor table preparing the birthday dish, stuffed rice. This dish consists of rice, all sorts of vegetables finely diced, sausage also finely diced, raisins, and I do not know what else. The women had a huge tub of cooked rice and were dicing mounds of veggies. Before long Bodie, an American expat, arrived with a big sound system. According to what I heard, he’d failed at several ventures and was now trying to run a hotel and restaurant—or his parents, who arrived later, were. He called it his venture and they called it theirs.

I changed out of my suit in Jenn’s little concrete house, and then Jess and Daniel walked back to Rancho Tranquilo so that Daniel could change and return to the party. While there they arranged with Tina to have me spend another night at Rancho Tranquilo in our old hut. It was a very smart move as it would have been difficult to go to bed in the little tent under the pavilion any earlier than the party wound down, and I would have had to cope with no mattress, electricity, running water, or nearby flush bathroom.

After eating the birthday stuffed rice, it was time for the piñata. The kids and adults had eagerly awaited this moment. By this time it was dark and I wondered how the kids would see the candy, but they did fine.      

Dina (in apron), friends, and villagers gather to make stuffed rice, a traditional birthday food of rice, sausage, diced veggies, and raisins

Stuffed with stuffed rice

The matriarch at the party; clear eyed and black haired even in her 80s

Penelope with a birthday balloon

Dina oiling the big metal pot for the stuffed rice

First Peter had to dance—we waited impatiently while all called to Bodie for music, we need music!—and then Peter was blindfolded and whirled around before being handed a stick. The two men manipulating the piñata, which was in the shape and colors of superman, were adept at keeping the piñata high and away from the stick. Then many of the others, including Daniel and Jess gave it a try. Maybe an hour and a half after the piñata bashing began, the piñata was finally smashed enough to release its load of candy. Both adults and children fell on the candy in a mad rush. I shined my headlamp on the area to help them locate every last piece.

Expat Bodie and friend, the music men; all waited impatiently for music but it didn’t come until the generator was brought in by Dennis and hooked up 

Birthday boy Peter at pinata

Daniel dancing before his turn at the pinata

Jess taking a blind swing at the pinata

This excitement over, all wanted to sit by the bonfire they’d built. Not me. Not in 90+ degrees and an equal amount of humidity. Jess then told me about her plan for me to sleep back at RT. I was very thankful! What a thoughtful kid she is. Jess and Daniel walked me back along the dark lanes and to RT and I got the idea that they would enjoy a night alone together, too.

Everyone in the vicinity could hear the beat of the music and eventually, I was told, all including Tina & Dennis and the three Danes hiked over to the party and sat around the bonfire drinking rum and beer and celebrating Peter’s 40th. Quite a bash.